Shotwell

After an amazing showing at the Academy of Art Spring 2011 Fashion show, Jannika Lilija is ready to make a splash.  Hailing from the northern part of Finland, She has known for many years that her Modus Operandi, would be expressing herself through the guise of carefully constructed knits.  Chief among her ambitions, is exploring the sartorial pallet but doing it within a different dimension.  Exploring the constructs of gender, through androgynous concepts, Jannika aims to reaffirm that clothing can be an agent of change  .  Little known of this young talent, is that she was involved in synchronized ice skating when she was young.  This played a big part in her life as it  was instrumental in solidifying  team work.  Skating was a huge part of her upbringing and is what she left behind when she decided to focus in on her chief passion, fashion design.  She has made her presence felt and now this avid lover of Anne Dumeulameester, will try her hand in the industry that has, and will continue to act as mirrors into our own collective psyche as people.  Cheers.

Renee: How did you get started in fashion design? What is your history?

Jannika: I knew since I was a kid, when I was handed my first pencil. In daycare, I  began drawing princesses everyday, which seems ridiculous now. I was obsessive about drawing girls outfits and faces. I started sewing in 3rd grade, in an elective class. I also attended a fine arts middle school, where a teacher gave me free access to the sewing labs anytime I wanted. Then began making dresses for friends for special occasions, such as prom. It was something that evolved, yet came intuitively to me.

Renee: I heard that you used to be a professional ice skater, can you tell me more about that?

Jannika: I started ice skating at age 4. I trained my whole life, and skated competitively.  In 2006, I joined Marigold Ice Unity , and got be a part of a world championship team win in 2006. Marigold Ice Unity are three time world champs. It was a huge part of my life; I even went to a sports high school where sports were viewed as important as studies. To me my ice skating experience was crucial in establishing my ethics.  I learned about team work and the benefits of being part of one.  I even entertained the idea of being a coach ! At age 19,I  knew that I would have to chose between ice skating or design. I felt like a one door in my life was closing, yet another was opening. I decided to chose the thing that made me most happy, which was the creative world of design.  I felt like I needed new challenges. It was a big financial risk, since schools in Finland are free, but I’m glad I took the risk!
Renee: What was it like showing at the Academy of Art Spring 2011 Fashion Show?

Jannika: Really amazing, still processing it!  To be able to bring a collection from 2D to 3D , was fascinating and extremely enjoyable. It taught me the realistic side of fashion design and the work it takes to bring an idea to life. The staff and school are very professional, and I honed my leadership skills where knitwear students would help me complete my crocheted pieces that took over 120 hours to complete. I had 26 pieces in the collection.
It was very intense and hard, but it was the most fun I had during my time at AAU. I had a lot of love for my collection, and it was very personal so it made everyday a joy for me. I balanced friends and work by hanging out with friends at Dolores Park  while working on some of my crocheted pieces. Socializing was a big stress reliever, and friends always play a big part of my life. Even when I’d only get 3 hours of sleep. Or less!

Renee: Does your Finnish roots influence your design work in any way?
Jannika: The dark winters and lack of light for 5 months out of the year, memories of childhood, and living in weather extremities of Finland inform my work. In Finland, 10am till 3pm there is light amount you get  in the winter, and then it gets dark again. This season is from September till after Christmas. There is a high rate of depression in the country because of the lack of light. It is this rough way of life that lends to my muted and dark color palettes. Although in the summer it is completely full of sunshine!

Renee: What does Androgyny mean to you and why is it important?

Jannika: To me Androgyny is a state of mind, kind of rebellious even.  To me it creates a certain sense of mystery and sexiness.  To me Androgyny is combining the best of both worlds-Women’s wear and Men’s wear.

Renee: What is your favorite color?

Jannika: love black. I love muted tones. I’m not really a bright person. (laughs)

Renee: Are you inspired by costume History?

Jannika: I’m not someone who works with periods. I’m more inspired by how women’s wear has changed over time, it’s a mirror of cultural change, its says a lot about the times.

Renee: Describe your design process?
Jannika: I discovered a girl a few years ago, which is partly herself and partly her imagination. Design for me is a way of expression, I get everything out.  I like to create a story, and that is always her starting point. I collect images and write stories about it.  I do photo shoots with the first pieces, and document the steps of her story.  I absolutely cannot work without music! I have to be at a bar with my headphones on, at a café, or in the outdoors. I get very emotionally involved in the story, and cannot force the process ( it has to be the right moment). I love all aspects of fashion design, such as: pattern making, draping on a form, and all the research. If I am not feeling motivated to do one aspect, I can do the other, and that is how she enjoys her work.

Renee: We know that you worked with Rodarte, the design sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, for their shows at New York Fashion Week during 2010 -2011. What was that experience like?

Jannika: A friend from school, Jonathan Baker, helped me get a job doing alterations for Rodarte during fashion week for the 3 past seasons. Kate and Laura are what I call dream painters, they create beautiful stories like dreams. They have a great production team, and the work is very hard. We have long days, some days start at 6am to 4am. I do fitting for models, take notes, and then start on the alterations. I also help prepare looks for the show. I really appreciate the textures and materials they use, as well as their interesting approach to design. It is an intense job, but extremely fun!  I also have my own interesting sources of material such as crocheted knits and leather, oiled canvas for coats, and her processes of distressing fabrics to create worn ancient looks.

Renee: What are your future plans?

Jannika: I am trying to get summer internship, and also waiting to see if she got accepted into Central St. Martins where she will be doing her masters degree. My  dream is to be able to get started right away after she completes her masters, designing for her own label.

Renee: Why do you like shopping at Shotwell?

Jannika: There is a great selection of different designers, and a good sense of style. She really loves the different accessories, shoes , and jewelry. I can always find something there that I like, and that fits her own aesthetic and taste.

Renee: What is your favorite piece that you’ve gotten from Shotwell?

Jannika: My Charlotte Ronson black knit sweater with the built in scarf, and the Found Made New bird skull necklace.

Jannika Lilja is a woman with incredible vision, clarity, and creative talent. We are happy to have met her and know she has an amazing future ahead of her. We here at Shotwell wish you well!

interview by Renee Torres

bio by Julian Villasenor